Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Saturday, October 3, 2009
this is not what i want.
i am in san francisco. i am home. i am with friends. i am in familiar places with friendly people in a beautiful, vibrant city. i feel comfortable. i feel calm.
and this is not what i want.
that's all that's running through my head. i don't feel panicked, but i do feel fairly certain. it is not that i wish i were somewhere else. i just don't want this life.
coming back has been lovely. i've been wrapped up in sweet arms and eager questions. i've been out to dinner and drinks and free music in the park. i have a nice place to sleep and potential jobs and many things to do and see.
and i don't want it.
i'm hesitant to find a job or a home. because i don't know if i want to stay here. it is fun and i don't know if i'm looking for fun.
i don't know what i'm looking for.
now that my daily attention is not consumed by such simple things-- finding my way, making the train on time, choosing a place to sleep, discovering a good meal, communicating in an unknown language, orienting myself-- now that it is now and i'm comfortable, i'm left with the questions. what do i want from life.
i do not think i want this. i don't want partying every night and i don't want high school drama and i don't want so much commotion. this morning, i did my laundry and watched all of san francisco split into two distinct lines. one in neon spandex and tutus towards the love parade at civic center. and one in cut-off shorts and ray bans towards the bluegrass festival. and i didn't really want either of it. i just wanted something quiet and soft instead.
what do i want.
i want a routine and i want love and i want a safe space. i want to bake and exercise and hold hands and make my bed. i want to work with kids. i want to be more settled. i want to be healthy.
i wonder if that can happen here. i wonder if i can make that happen here, or if i'm too entrenched in the unproductive and unhealthy routines i crafted for myself in this environment.
realistically, i need money and i need my own place and i need to get moving.
i'm scared.
i don't feel terrified. i don't feel like anyone else can help me. i don't feel like i won't be okay. these are the treasures i brought home with me from europe. i am grateful for them.
but i do know i need to make decisions. healthy ones. ones for the future.
i am an adult, for the most part, and i want a good life and i have to make it for myself.
i just don't know where to start.
i guess i start by deciding what i don't want.
i don't want the life i had before and presently, i am living it again. divisadero and fly bar and the same dramas and patterns.
this is not what i want.
Friday, September 25, 2009
it is 5 am in berlin. i am half-awake, relishing the stillness of a big city that only comes with the approaching morning. misty and hopeful and hushed. i am wearing a vintage nightie i bought at the flea market. i am under christian's square little german comforter. it is covered in some faux red silk that is now coated in pills, in the way only a boy could make something so smooth turn nubby. christian is in poland. it is saturday. i return to the states in just 48 hours. no, 54 hours. but i will leave for the airport 3 hours early, because i always have to be early. too early. so my travels begin in 51 hours.
these are the facts. when i have a hard time writing, i like to start with what is true. what is immediate and obvious. that way i don't get tangled up in the spiral of my thoughts. i am having a hard time writing. so i am going over the bookkeeping. my first post contained the bookkeeping. it is appropriate then that my last should as well.
this is my last post.
i am in berlin.
berlin smells like bread and trains and newspaper. not any one of them individually, but all of them together. i didn't realize it, until i came back and the scent was so familiar and i felt at home. i am at home here.
berlin is one of 9 cities i've been visited. 9 cities and 2 islands. in 6 countries. i read 11 books on my journeys. i rode 12 trains, 5 ferries, 2 busses, and 4 planes. i visited 9 museums. i stayed in 4 flats, one hostel, two houses, 5 hotels, one villa, and one bungalow. i met innumerable people and 3 of them, i will love forever. i have been gone 12 weeks minus a day, or 83 days. i have cried maybe 120 times, which is an estimation but a fairly good one. i am 1 person. my name is beth.
i want to say something beautiful. i want to say something profound. i would like to think that the last 12 weeks have been a process of distillation. that i've filtered out the extraneous elements, refined myself and from that can extract some small kernel of something pure, something clear and singular. like i could carry home some tiny revelation in my pocket as a souvenir from europe.
i have started writing 3 times, become overwhelmed by my own expectations of myself, and gotten tangled up in my thoughts. i do not have something profound or beautiful to say. instead, i will say something simple.
this is the best decision i ever made.
i do not regret one moment of anything that has happened, anything i've chosen.
i left and now i'm coming home.
home has a different meaning for me now. it is broader. it is also smaller. it is me. i make my home. i am at home with myself.
i am imperfect and loving and smart and irrational and funny and erratic and kind. i am not the best. i am beth. i am figuring out life. i can make as many lists with numbers as i please and it will never be entirely figured. i am happy about this. it is a process. it is a going.
i have seen some of the world and my eyes are new and with time they will become dirty again, but for now i am fresh and everything is possible.
everything is possible.
many people have asked me if i'll continue to write when i get home, if i would, please. i cannot imagine that i won't. this is my last post in europe. this is not the end of my journey. it is a caesura. a pause mid-line. a semi-colon. a comma. a something. this moment is some sort of punctuation, which indeed divides one part from the rest, but which is by no means an ending. i will not be in germany, but i'll be going.
wherever i go, i'll be going.
i think i am having trouble writing, because i feel like i'm acting like some sort of prom queen, giving a speech at the end of her arbitrary win. i spent the summer in europe. congratulations.
and yet, it was important for me. it was maybe the most important thing for me.
121 times. i am crying now.
what is true. it is morning. my hands are cold. i am 25 years old. my underwear is finally clean and drying on the knobs of christian's dresser. my left foot is asleep. i miss baking. i have a pink suitcase. i am tired. i am in berlin and in some hours i will be not in berlin. i'll be in california.
what is true is my name is beth and this summer i went to europe and realized i can take care of myself. what is true is i feel calm in a way i never have before. what is true is i am incredibly loved. what is true is that i love myself.
i love myself.
it is immediate and obvious.
it is the truth.
it is clear and distilled and pure.
it is quite the souvenir.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
just think.
one week from today i'll be home. this has gone by stupidly fast. it has been interminably slow. it has been beautiful and awful and lovely and rending.
but today is not a week from today. today is today and i am in ustica. another day, another island. it is even tinier than favignana. we arrived, got a hotel, and had lunch at a little spot overlooking the water that doesn't have a menu, but will just tell you what is fresh that day. we ate shrimp that were still wearing their little brittle coats and ripped them apart with our fingers. we drank wine and were sticky. when asked where a good beach was, the waitress replied that we should simply get on the bus and tell the driver we wanted to get off at a nice beach.
the bus arrived. the bus. there is one little orange bus that goes down one road around the perimeter of the island. it has 9 seats. we told the bus driver we wanted to get off at a nice beach and he replied okay as if this were a totally normal request. i suppose it is a normal request. i laughed at the thought of requesting the same thing in san francisco. i am not in san francisco. i am in ustica. and in ustica there is a little orange bus and it will take you to the best beach.
kate and i were soon joined by a group of little kids. they overpopulated the bus. the girls sat on one side and the boys on the other. the girls sat and whispered the way children do-- not in whispers, but in strained speech, which is actually more like yelling over your tongue, as if its arch might somehow quiet the words. they liked my shoes and wondered over my tattoo, as kate translated. once they realized she spoke italian, they attempted more effective whispers and yelled more quietly. i felt my age. i felt like maybe they were making fun of me and felt little and insecure. i felt like maybe we could be friends, that they and their backpacks which nearly hung to the ground could come playing at the beach with us.
when we left, they said arrivederci and i felt summery. like i had just escaped school in june and was going to the beach for the first time. the bus driver nodded and left us at a little rocky beach where only 3 other people were. the beaches here are smaller but maybe more beautiful than in favignana. they are darker and more jagged. the waves are a little rough. the water is clear and warm. the rocks are mossy. they are the antithesis of all the dirty, cold beaches i have ever visited. they are postcards. that is all i can think when i see them.
we swam. i screamed. i am more comfortable, but still always scream in the water. i scream when i cannot touch the bottom and when the ocean floor is slippery and when the rocks look like animals, even though i know they're not. i scream when i see my own limbs flailing through the water. today i screamed when i saw a jellyfish and then scrambled to escape, only to run directly into him. he was pink. i felt the sting on my arm and cried to kate. i felt the sting as i swam and my arm felt electric and i wondered if someone would pee on me. an italian man, named massimo, who we'd talked to earlier, motioned at me as i exited the water. kate was still swimming in from some distant point, and he ushered me to his car, where he had some sort of cream he rubbed on the pink welts rising on my arm. it was less painful and i felt wonderfully exotic with my jellyfish sting tended to by the native ustican, who kept flipping his long wet hair into the sun. he is a diver and ready for these sorts of things. we tried to talk, but my few phrases are fairly inoperative for conversation other than greetings and he spoke no english. i said grazie mille and was happy. later i asked kate how he knew what i had needed, that i'd be stung. she said she thought it might be that i was screaming louder than usual and motioning at my arm frantically. i think she was right.
our little orange bus never returned and we walked for a little over an hour along the coast to return to the city center, eating grapes that hang over the sides of walls and imagining how we'd survive off of the land if we never made it back. our clothes gradually disappeared until we were walking in bikini tops with our dresses swaddled around our butts like diapers to keep our thighs from rubbing in the heat. we laughed and we laughed and we laughed and the infrequent drivers that swept by looked at us with curiosity and confusion.
the men in general watch us with wild eyes. they are overt and unabashed. two young women alone are an anomaly to all of italy. our dresses are short and we walk unafraid and they stare like they are watching tv. like we will not look back and, if we should, that it would not matter. that we are spectacles and meant to be observed. we feel special somehow. and slightly animal. on the ferry today, one of the crew rushed us onto the bow of the ship, muttering something in italian kate did not understand, and he gesticulated wildly to show us the pod of dolphins racing against the front of the enormous boat. they were leaping and playing. we took pictures and squealed with the sort of joy the man maybe had wanted and we perpetuated their vision of us as confused and elated tourists.
i am fine with this impression as i am a confused and elated tourist. i take pictures of my food and save restaurant cards and constantly look at maps and watch everything with stunned eyes. ustica is perfect because it is tiny and i feel like i can contain it, but it also feels majestic and secretive, despite being compact.
i wonder what people do in such small towns. i know, i suppose, but i still wonder at it. the few tiny shops and restaurants. the faces we see repeatedly even in less than 24 hours here. the calmness of this life. they farm tuna. they sweep floors. they grow grapes. they go to the sea. they eat. they talk. they do as everyone does. and yet it confuses me. i am so used to distraction and mania. i am used to stimulation and activity and business. being still is eerie. it is strange.
it is strange to sit with a beautiful girl on an island in southern italy and eat too much and be watched and get sunburned and laugh. i suppose by strange, i mean perfect.
i cannot fathom being anywhere other than here. and yet, soon i will be. tomorrow i will be in palermo and wednesday i'll be in berlin and monday i will be back in san francisco. i have slowed down. i have stopped seeing museums and buildings and walking around endlessly. i have started having 3 hour lunches and getting drunk in the middle of the day and lying on rocky beaches and talking forever. and i still just feel like me. and so it seems i will everywhere i go.
i can barely anticipate the insanity of what i will write a week from now. maybe i will not write at all. maybe i will just fall away. maybe not. maybe i have learned to try to stop controlling things. i can plan and have foresight but i cannot control. i am in control-- of myself, but not of everything. i am on an island lying next to a gorgeous woman and it is the end of 3 months in europe and i am different and the same and it goes and it goes and it goes. i am happy.
Saturday, September 19, 2009

sicily is another world. it is beautiful and slow and hot. we are at kate's aunt's house in the country. the floors are tiled and the doors are always open. everyone lolls around in sandals and minimal clothing, walking down country paths to the pool, playing with dogs and smoking cigarettes and drinking wine in the middle of the day. every bottle of wine is made by someone's girlfriend's cousin. and it never stops coming. her uncle speaks no english but repeatedly asks me vino bianca? and i nod and my glass fills up again and again and again, blurring the afternoon into the evening, when we eat and drink more. lunch is at 2 and dinner is at 9. everyone eats together. her aunt and uncle and kate and i and any number of their 4 children and their wives/ girlfriends/ boyfriends. the table is set with a tablecloth and colorful ceramic plates and full sets of silverware and carafes of wine and we eat until we cannot eat anymore. first pasta and then meat or homegrown eggplant and fresh baguettes with vinegar and then fruit and slightly sweet pastries and espressos and her aunt always asking if you would like some more?
they speak in italian and i watch their hands and listen for words i can understand. sometimes kate translates. sometimes we blather to each other in english. sometimes i float away from the conversations entirely, happily secluded in my little world of english. i have learned to count to ten, to say hello, goodnight, nice to meet you! great idea! how are you? come here, i love you, i need a drink, my name is beth, where is the toilet? and what the fuck do you want?
we spent sunday on a houseboat, monday at the beach, and on tuesday we took the ferry to favignana, a little island of the northwest coast of sicily. it is unbelievably beautiful. crystal clear water and rocky beaches and weathered little buildings and crazy cobblestone roads and laundry hanging from every window. just a cluster of stores and restaurants and markets that sell only alcohol, cheese, every shape of pasta, and tuna cans over a foot in diameter. the houses open right into the streets and their shuttered doors are often open, allowing glimpses of the old couples within, sweeping floors and watching tv in the afternoon. we rented bikes and went from beach to beach, climbing down cliffs to perch on rocks by the water, breezing around in thin cotton dresses, getting sunburned, drinking wine all day, eating the freshest pasta and cheeses and breads. we stayed in a sweet little bungalow on a camping site that had a kitchen and a living room and an enormous porch with sun chairs. we played cards and were drunk and pink and carefree and laughed so much my stomach hurt for days.
the second day we awoke to the most violent storm i've ever witnessed. we sat on the porch and watched the rain, which eventually left us without electricity or running water. we took our bikes out anyway and rode into the city center, drowning in the puddles and the wet flimsy cotton of our dresses. it was decided whiskey would keep us warm and so we were drunk in the middle of the day, then napped off the cold and alcohol. later we met our neighbors, paulina from mexico and jonas from germany. they are married and live in italy. we talked across our porches for hours about the oddities and excitements of traveling, about jobs and passions and family, about wine and weather and home. and then we went out to dinner together. a strange little collection of people, eating pasta late late at night on an island street, laughing and sharing stories. we had gelato and went out for drinks later and had such a time. kate and i laughed and were weird and i looked at her and loved everything about her. the fact that she can speak another language with such ease. that she makes plates of cheese and fruit for me to eat on the bed. that she understands my needs and worries and my heart. that she is funny and thoughtful and smart and insanely beautiful. that she can answer my questions about animals and the ocean. that she commends me on overcoming my fear of the water and swimming where i cannot touch the ground. that i can be near her for so many days without a minute apart and not ever feel like being without her.
she just patted my knee and told me she loved me.
it feels good to be loved.
the third day it was sunny again and there was more of biking and beaches and drinking and laughing. we ate grapes and watched a boat sink. we swam topless in a private little cove while the sun set. we made pasta and ate on our porch and collected stray kittens and made a home.
i feel blissful and relaxed and amazing.
i am home in just over a week. today i will not muse upon how it will be, how i will feel, how i feel about myself now. i am in sicily and there is wine to be had and figs to pluck from trees and my kate to love. i will be home soon enough and there will be plenty of time for thinking then.
and so it goes.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
i have just finished reading east of eden. i spent the entire day reading. i woke up at ten and started reading. i read in a cafe in rome, eating the greasiest piece of cold pizza that stained the few pages i consumed along with my food. i read on the train to civitavecchia, while a baby screamed frantically in the background and my tiny legs struggled for room in the crammed cabin. i read in the heat of the small, lovely city-- the sunlight and the thin white pages blinding my eyes to anything other than the words in front of me. i read in the port, as the sun gave way to heavy clouds and hysterical, sideways rain. i read as i ate pasta in the cafeteria of the ferry, sharing my table with a crepe-skinned old man in an orange shirt. i read in the lounge, surrounded by circles of men throwing cards to the middle of sandpapery tables, while a comical man played the keyboard and warbled strange italian words into a microphone. i read and then there was nothing more to read and my eyes exploded with tears.
i ran out to the deck, feeling ridiculous and stood in the corner, sobbing. somewhere in my reading, it became dark and i gasped when i finally looked around me and saw nothing but black. no stars. no moon. no horizon. just black. i peered over the edge of the boat, which is nearly as tall as i am, and saw only the frothy water curling out from the sides of the ferry. it looked to me like clouds in fast forward-- twisting and changing rapidly and then disappearing. i felt terrified and lonely. i missed the characters of the book and wanted them back. i wanted to have not been so greedy, to have not read so fast.
i wanted to know what i would sound like, if someone were to write about me. if i would be beautiful. if i would be loved. what my failings and what my ugliness would be, and would i recognize them printed before me. and would a girl on a summer journey miss me if she consumed me too quickly. would she cry. would she write about me.
i feel strange and incapable of touching what it is i've just experienced. reading these words. which i needed. which were perfect. which came at just the right time, as everything seems to do lately.
i am still weeping a little. but quietly now. and now instead of looking at me with wanting eyes, the groups of grey-haired italian men look at me with fear, because i am vulnerable and strange and not so afraid to show it. their eyes return to their cards and their heads do not turn to follow me. their heads which did not really follow me but my boobs which are always exposed. and thomas says he cannot understand why no one asks me on a date, but maybe it is that i seem confident and maybe my chest is saying it too overtly.
and i say that i don't feel confident. or i never have really, until now. but maybe i'm not and maybe i never will be. but maybe i am.
i just want to be good. i want to be good and i want to love and i want to be loved. it is simple and stupid and i hope that it is true. i want to love and i want the people around me to feel loved. maybe it is silly to say, but i'm emotional and feel strong in my weakness. many weeks ago, at the jewish museum in berlin. during my first weekend alone in berlin. i came to the paper pomegranate tree. there was a note saying that pomegranates hold special meaning for jews. maybe if i remembered why, i would not be still so young and silly. maybe then i would actually know something, but i don't. i just remember that they had little paper pomegranates and you could write a wish and hang it from the tree. and i walked around that tree, reading people's wishes. wishes for personal things and for world peace and for love and for things i couldn't read in chinese characters and in spanish and italian. and things i couldn't read in bad handwriting and things i could almost read in german. and i took mine to a little table and with my favorite black pen, which i've somehow managed not to lose this entire trip, i wrote that those i love might love themselves. because it was all i could think of and what i really meant. and i walked up the spiraling stairs within the tree to the middle and hung my pomegranate wish and left it there.
i know you are not supposed to tell wishes, but i don't think it's in wishing that things happen. it's in the doing. i try to do that. i try to do that for myself as well. that is what this has been about. and i couldn't love myself until i let me love myself. i try to live that way. for everyone. to show them they are beautiful. you can't make a person do or believe anything they don't want to. maybe it is foolish. it feels foolish now that i've said it.
we just waste so much time. telling ourselves we are not good enough or don't have enough or should do more. i hear it from many people i love. and while i'm not blind, while i can admit fault most readily in myself and also in others, i am loved by the most beautiful people in the world. i believe this to be so. while i have gotten to know myself quite well on this trip, i've also gotten to know the people i love. i have seen what sticks, what is not based on convenience, what is true, what is real. i feel incredibly loved and incredibly capable of love in return.
i am rambling and frantic. i am just too full. i am filled up with words and with love and with hope.
here is my favorite passage:
"don't you see?" he cried. "the american standard translation orders men to triumph over sin, and you can call sin ignorance. the king james translation makes a promise in 'thou shalt,' meaning that men will surely triumph over sin. but the hebrew word, the word timshel-- 'thou mayest'-- that gives a choice. it might be the most important word in the world. that says the way is open. that throws it right back on man. for if 'thou mayest'-- it is also true that 'thou mayest not.' don't you see?... why, that makes a man great, that gives him stature with the gods, for in his weakness and his filth and his murder of his brother he still has the great choice. he can choose his course and fight it through and win... i have a new love for that glittering instrument, the human soul. it is a lovely and unique thing in the universe. it is always attacked and never destroyed-- because 'thou mayest.'"
a choice! a choice, for good, for love, for triumph.
how strange that this is all my own life, my choice, my creation. i know it and yet every time i say it to myself it is foreign and amazing.
i feel dizzy and wild.
i want to be good. i choose good. i want to love and be loved. that is all. i don't know what else to say. i have read so many words, written so many words, and now they are all drained out of me and i'm just quiet and still weeping.
on the way to sicily. in the middle of a black sky and a black ocean.
my name is beth.
