Wednesday, August 26, 2009

i am on the train to amsterdam.

it is grey and sleepy and lovely today. a perfect day for a train ride. the train is empty. thomas is sleeping. i am not sleeping.

prague was fleeting, but warm and sumptuous. like some delicious dessert you can almost only take a few bites of, it is so rich.  it is the most beautiful place i've ever seen. yesterday we split up and i roamed the streets, drinking wine in the sun, reading on carefully manicured lawns by the river, visiting book stores and reveling at the shapes of the words, twirling through the serpentine roads, writing, feeling pointless in the most free and perfect way. i felt the need to touch everything. i ran my hands along buildings, spread my fingers through the grass, turned postcards over in my hands, mauled fruit and chocolate at the farmers market. just to see if it was real. see if beauty like that can really exist.

apparently it can.

i am baffled.

thomas and i met for dinner. we sat in a cafe by the river. we had plates of cheese and bread and coffees and chocolates, while an extraordinarily old man huddled in the corner played the piano. we read books. we talked. everything feels languid and utterly decadent.

i am almost confused by the freedom that traveling allows. i just have a backpack. i don't have to be anywhere at any time. i don't have keys or rent or schedules. there is always another train. there is always another hotel. nothing is keeping me anywhere. i feel a bit like a balloon that's just been accidentally released from some sweet baby's hand and is now blustering wildly through the sky. floating. skating back and forth with the wind, spinning, twirling, drifting further into space, amazed that all that was tethering it to the earth was one tiny curled piece of ribbon. i barely know what to do with myself.

i think of melby's book, the red balloon. that red balloon that followed a little boy in a turtleneck around paris. i think of her copy of the book with her name written in crayon in the front and the torn pages inside. i don't know what that means.

i am a balloon. i am not a balloon.

i will not return to earth popped and devoid of life. but maybe i will let my line out a little. not always stay so close. maybe i will hover and float, instead of clinging.


we have been traveling now almost 12 hours. i don't feel bored or listless. i feel disconnected and airy and strange. the sun is beginning to set. we are in the netherlands now and the words just look like confused german. i feel that same way. familiar, but misspelled.  just beyond discernible meaning. a little bit off. we will be in amsterdam only a day and a half. and then we will leave for paris. and then i will go to london. and then and then and then.

i feel a little bit like a conjunction. i feel like punctuation. i feel like a balloon. i feel far far away from everything.

Monday, August 24, 2009

i am in our hotel in prague, sitting on the balcony of the most precious little hotel, listening to billie holiday. i am four stories above, peering down streets that disappear quickly into mazes of cobblestone and spired roofs. this is the most incredible city i've ever seen. dizzying and rich and almost offensively beautiful. it is unreal.

i woke up at 6 am, too excited to sleep, and said goodbye callously to berlin. i could not be emotional about it. i will be back at the end of next month and somehow it is so familiar now, it is ingrained in me. i know i will be back many times.

we wandered a bit upon our arrival and i was, as i often am, racked with nerves. i have heard so much about prague and have been anticipating it so much that, initially, i was too filled with expectations to relax. but it was stunning. we crossed the charles bridge, feasted on berries and nectarines from the farmer's market, drank in the sights, enjoyed some pasta and ice cream, sweated out sun and excitement. over dinner, thomas and i talked about traveling. what the "point" is, why people do it, what it's worth. and i figured, eventually, that, despite the immense beauty of the places and people i see, this is all about me. at least this time. this is about me, being in new places and thus being able to see myself differently.

it is almost like where's waldo. on each page, he's in a new scene. and it forces you to look for his familiar traits. you look for that striped shirt. that pom-pom hat. those round black glasses. he is always the same, but it's the searching that makes it fun. it is discovering yourself and your place in a new framework that makes it valuable. what is my essence. what will i find to be true in every setting. what defines me. if someone were looking for beth, what would they seek. do i look the same next to the eiffel tower as i do next to the brandenburg gate. who am i. where's beth. 

it is not so much an existential crisis, as it is a matter of unfolding.

i love talking to thomas. he is rational and pragmatic, but never without hope. he helps me see myself.  he sees me through rose-colored glasses. or maybe just without the grey-tinted glasses i use to look inward. he sees me clearly.

i finally relaxed when we came back to the hotel, before going out tonight. we are going to a jazz concert. i am going to a jazz concert in prague! unbelievable.

i came back a little before thomas and was resting. i didn't know where he'd been and when he arrived, he had a bag of snacks. with everything in twos. the noah's ark of treats. cheeses and rolls, warm from the oven.  candy bars and fruits and water and jogurt. he pulled them out of his bag, one at a time, and lined them up excitedly on the table. and finally, i felt ecstatic. sitting in a hotel in prague with a man i adore and a happy feast ahead of me. i felt calm. i am better at seeing when it is in small doses, when i am not expecting anything.

so that is my new challenge for myself. to not expect, but just accept. to try to dismiss my notions of what should be. how i should feel, what i should experience, and just let it come. let go. and let life be.

i am going to take a shower and put on a clean dress. i am going to go out into the stunning, winding streets of prague where the sky now looks like it is made of melon sorbet. creamy and pink and soft. i am going to listen to jazz. i am going to see about a girl named beth. and i am going to feel whatever i feel. but i have a strong inclination, that feeling might be amazing.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

it is 8 am sunday morning. i am disheveled and poorly rested. it is cold in the way that promises warmth later. chilled and quiet and bright. i am in my lace nightie, wrapped in the funny square coverlets germans use in place of comforters and sheets. i feel as still and as full of anticipation as this morning.
thomas has left for osnabrück, where his sister lives. he has decided to visit her before we leave on our journey. we will leave for prague tomorrow instead. he asked me sweetly and somewhat nervously if he could go alone, as if he were here to take care of me. i said, of course. i am secretly glad for this day alone to say goodbye to berlin. to say, see you soon. to say, thank you.

yesterday was lovely. it was beautiful and full and saturated. we shared an enormous breakfast, watched part of the berlin marathon, wandered through the tiergarten, visited some sights, had drinks and read books on the river, took naps, talked. then we went for the most incredible dinner. thomas doesn't eat meat and i found this restaurant in a magazine that is all vegetarian. he always laments that vegetarians usually have one choice on the menu, so i was glad to take him somewhere he could eat anything he wanted. we took a long walk to get there and found ourselves at the address, which appeared to be a driveway filled with dumpsters. after asking for directions, we found we were actually at the right place. in an alleyway, behind piles of trash and parked cars, there was a locked, unmarked door with an intercom. we buzzed to ask and found ourselves in a dark empty room. after some more wandering, we finally made our way into the back, upstairs and found a quiet, lovely restaurant with cozy tables, plush banquette seating and an open kitchen. we had three course meals, lingering over brie-stuffed filo dough, baked eggs, and grilled peaches. parmesan dumplings and creamy polenta with peas and truffles. white chocolate souffle and espresso tartlets and poached blueberries. wine and sparkling water and cofffee. we stayed for nearly four hours, our endless conversation punctuated by tastes of each delicious thing that appeared at our table. it was exquisite. and he refuses to let me pay for anything. i am certain that, after 10 days, i will be fat and completely spoiled.
each moment i am surprised at the things i am learning about this person who seemed so familiar. sometimes i think we become so accustomed to seeing people that we stop discovering things about them. being here, where everything is unknown, has renewed my sense of wonder, of questioning, and that has extended to the familiar and i feel glad for it. i am glad to be getting to know my friends again. and myself.

i left seven weeks ago today. just think. i can hardly wrap my mind around it, around all the emotions and experiences of the last month and a half. i am surprised by some of the things that have been difficult and others that have come with ease. i am suprised at the people i've kept in touch with, the unexpected people who have become even more present in my life in my absence, the people i think about often, the ways in which i miss and love and stay connected. nothing is as i anticipated, yet now, in this moment, it all makes sense. everything is illuminated and clear. everything is just as it's supposed to be.
thomas and i finished our books at the same time yesterday. he was laughing and i, as usual, was welling up with tears. we sat on a floating dock in sun chairs, having cocktails.
in the last few weeks, everything i read, everything i see, every experience i have seems to come at just the right time. to either echo or enhance what it is i'm living. it is eerie. or maybe i am just listening differently, watching differently. in the last pages, my book said this,
nothing is in vain. you don't go anywhere in life, eliza, you just keep walking.

sometimes i wonder why i haven't read certain authors or books before, why i hadn't already been to europe, why i didn't make certain choices that all now seem so obvious and positive and necessary. and i am coming to believe that maybe i just wasn't ready. that now is the time for what is now and later will be the time for what is later. that everything, despite how it may seem or how frustrating it may be in the process, unfolds as it's supposed to. that something in the world is dictating life and ensuring that that life is beautiful and good.
it is not every day i cry happy tears before 9 am in the morning. but then again, not every day is my last day in berlin.
my last day in berlin. my first day of something else.
you just keep walking.

Friday, August 21, 2009

berlin is full of endings.
it is also full of beginnings.
with evey end, it promises me something new. and i am coming to welcome that. to enjoy my hellos and my goodbyes.
today i said goodbye to my class and to some girlfriends. i was surprised at how sad i felt. while i'm excited for my upcoming travels, i also feel very grounded here. stable and fairly calm and happy. camille and mari and i went out to lunch. we sat huddled under umbrellas outside in the torrential rain, which has arrived to flush me out of berlin. make it fluid. let me go. when lunch was over, it seemed too soon to say goodbye so we went for cake and coffee. we ate cheesecake and laughed and took pictures and looked at each other with the kind of eyes you have when you are certain that life is beautiful.
i hugged baby french camille of so few words and so little outward emotion. she is tall and thin with fiery red hair that cups her face and long hands that move deliberately and delicately. she is reserved and lovely and sophisticated and everything i am not. and i love her. as i walked away, i started to cry. it is one thing to know you're coming back to someone, but quite another not to know if you'll ever see them again. maybe a minute later, she sent me a text that said, i miss you already. and i was happy. she will always be in my heart.
i am happy for these goodbyes, for their difficulty, because it makes me realize i've made bonds here. i have roots in berlin now. and though they might only be just plunging below the surface, they are there. i am taking shape. i am laying pieces of myself into the world. i am finding my stability.
i walked home, full and warm in my sadness and i felt so alive, so electric. along the way, there was a thunder and lightning storm and i could tell berlin was feeling for me, that we were feeling each other.

soon after, my phone rang. i looked out the window. and there was thomas.
every time someone visits, i am surprised at how not strange it feels. like they just belong here. i kept saying, we're in berlin! like somehow that would help me internalize the largeness of it all, but despite it, it was still just my friend thomas and i in berlin. and maybe it is better that way. it makes the world seem more accessible. that love looks the same everywhere you take it.
we walked to hackesher markt and had dinner. it was raining and i, being perpetually underdressed, was lucky enough to be held by thomas under his jacket. we talked and talked and talked and when it felt too early to go home, we went for coffee and pastries and talked some more. we talked about families and love and relationships and the kind of things you talk about when you're first making friends with people. big things. life things.
and strangely, i felt like i was meeting him for the first time. this person i've known for six years was suddenly so new and full of possibilities. and i loved getting to know him. i also realized how much we've been through together, how long he's been a part of my life, how much i've grown in that time, how he encourages me, how he believes i am capable of all things good, how beautiful i feel when he is around. i feel lucky to have him here. i feel safe. we brushed our teeth side by side and i laughed harder than i have in a while, when he said his toothpaste tasted strange and realized he was using face cream. i have just tucked him in-- tight and cozy into the stiff white sheets. it is friday and it is still early and tomorrow is also full of possibilities. we will stay the day and then leave sunday for prague. i am nervous about leaving. i am also ecstatic.

last night i had one of those moments, walking toward the sunset at the end of a hot summer day, listening to my music, and i just felt incredible. i felt how enormous everything is, how wonderfully different and the same it is everywhere, and how glad i am to be here-- in berlin, in the world, on that street, with myself. i wore a silk green dress and could feel my body being strong. i couldn't look at anything but the sun, the distance, the way ahead of me, the places to go. my eyes felt like they were glazed in syrup. dewy and sweet and shiny. i am usually fairly invisible in berlin, but this time i could feel people watching me. maybe they knew i was seeing something special.. and coldplay, who reminds me of my first days of college, and so many changes and so much hope and fear and possibility, sang into my ears,
we live in a beautiful world, yeah we do, yeah we do. we live in a beautiful world...
and out loud, i said
yes.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

today my parents have been married 42 years. forty-two years ago today they were in the backyard of my bapa's house with its carefully tended flowers and trees and when asked if he took this woman, maureen to be his lawfully wedded wife, don loster replied, i most certainly do. 
and thus began the loster family, i know today. the loster family, with its years of joy and growth and grief and beauty. my parents have endured, experienced and survived all life has to offer and created something incredibly lovely. i feel lucky to be a part of it. there have been moments, within my mini-berlin crises, that i remember how much my parents have been through and how whole and loving and full they continue to be, and it makes everything seem possible. it makes me hopeful. it makes me strong. it makes me believe in love.
happy anniversary mom and dad.

i have three or four days left in berlin. today i left my dirty pink suitcase with christian, who has kindly allowed me to store it at his house while i travel. i arrived at the cafe, he looked at it rather critically, said, so this is the suitcase? and laughed. and i laughed. i am not sure what it meant, but it was christian and in that moment i realized i have made a friend in germany. someone i will know always. someone with whom i am comfortable and happy. someone who will roll my pink suitcase down several blocks to his home.
currently remaining in my possession, i have a powder blue backpack, which contains the following: seven tiny dresses, which look like discarded flowery tissues wadded in a pile, one pair of tights, ten pairs of underwear (mostly pink by my estimation), one pair of walking shoes, one pair of sandals, a cardigan, a jacket, a bathing suit, two books, a journal, an assortment of impossibly tiny toiletries, my purse and its indiscernible mess of contents, and a passport. and that is all. i have decided what i don't have i can buy, and what becomes cumbersome, i can discard. i have become wholly unconcerned with things. i have bought practically nothing while i've been here. no trinkets. one dress. one book. i have spent my money on experiences-- museums, boat trips, train rides, meals with friends, drinks near rivers, movies in the open air. articles seem pointless. i do not need a snow globe to remind me of what i've experienced. i have words and memories and photos. and that is enough. i am excited to depart with so few things. 
the minute i deposited that suitcase, i felt free. i felt like i could go anywhere. and i will.
in less than 48 hours, thomas will be here. we are planning to go to prague, amsterdam and then paris. he needs to leave me earlier than i expected, which created an initial panic and which i've now embraced. i am thinking of going to london to stay with rebecca. from london i will maybe travel back through germany, stopping in munich, then head further south to rome and by the 10th end up in sicily to see my beloved kate. while i'm sure those plans will change daily, if not moment by moment, i am learning to embrace life's surprises while still trying to keep some amount of foresight. 
these past few days i have felt amazingly calm. i don't feel like i have to assert that i am okay, i just feel it. i have been content to read and rest and have simple, lovely evenings. i went out last night, but it didn't feel frantic. i didn't feel like i had to have the most insane time or the best time or anything else, and consequently i did. and when i was tired, i went home. i did not worry i was missing out on something.
i admit i am nervous to leave berlin. i am comfortable and safe here. i know people. i can navigate, i speak the language. when i walk down simon-dach strasse i regularly say hello to several people i see daily. i have made a home. and yet i guess i am learning that home can be anywhere. home is my ability to connect with people and places, however brief or long, however intimate or superficial. home is when i give myself to where i am and what i have and stop wishing for something else. home is when i love and let myself be loved. by all of life. home can be anywhere or anything, if you let it. if you let it. if you let go. 
and realize how close that can bring you to things.
i feel nice. i feel lucky.
i most certainly do.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

i just realized itunes tells you how many times you have listened to a song. it also tells you the date and time you last listened to each song. apparently the song i have listened to most in the life of my computer is a song by bright eyes. first day of my life. i have listened to it 97 times. i listened to it last on august 9th at 11:24 am.

yours is the first face that i saw, i think i was blind before i met you. now i don't know where i am, i don't know where i've been, but i know where i want to go. so i thought i'd let you know, that these things take forever. i especially am slow. but i realized that i need you and i wondered if i could come home...

i am wondering what i was doing then.

i think about how life would be if all things could be recalled in such a specific matter, if i could count the number of muffins i've made, of letters i've sent, of lunches i've eaten out, of hugs i've had. if i could count the number of words i've written, of naps i've taken, of people i've loved, of moments i was sure were the best or worst of my life, of times i've smiled. if there was a bookkeeping, what would it look like and what would it amount to. which numbers would i be most concerned with, which ones would i want to change. 

i think about the songs i've only listened to once and why it was only once. i think about the songs i've never listened to and why they're here at all.

i think about saying goodbye. i think how, if you could see all of life this way, it might make me really sad. to count the number i've times i've met with someone, to recall the exact date and time of our last meeting. to wonder why that was the last time. to wonder what i might have said differently if i knew that was the last time. and yet i know value is not measured in numbers or durations or recentness. 

i feel confused by love.

i think i believe that if i love myself, i cannot love other people. that they are mutually exclusive. that allowing myself to be happy is somehow letting go of other people. i am confusing neediness with love. i feel distant from love. i feel close to myself. i feel far away from myself. i feel near love. i don't know what i feel. 

i am certain that i feel growing pains. that ache i remember feeling in my legs when i was young. it felt like my bones were hollow, like they were sucking the marrow out of their own cores, trying to build something bigger. to make me taller. obviously those pains were somewhat in vain since i never grew very much, but i remember that feeling of changing. it was only at night, when i was still. and it hurt.

now i am in berlin and when i'm still, i feel that ache. it is not in my bones. this time it is everywhere. it is sitting on my skin. i feel aware and awkward and pained and lovely. i am realizing i can take care of myself and that almost scares me more than being dependent on other people. it scares me because it's new. i know that if i just embrace it, i will feel amazing. strong. i also feel afraid of that strength. like maybe it is safer just to constantly need other people. to admit i need them.

it's not about whether or not i can be independent. i can.

it's about whether or not i want to.

i do.

i want to be independent.


the last few days have been very calm. still. i have laid in the sun. i have read a lot. i have watched movies and written and studied german and folded and refolded clothes. i have been alone. i have been not alone. i have cried. i have been happy. my legs are growing. i keep thinking about saying goodbye. i am not sure what i'm so terrified to say goodbye to. my friends, home, familiarity, dependency, my routines. the truth is i left many of these things already. over six weeks ago. i left them physically. i am still holding on a little. i am also embracing my solitude.

for a moment, i felt high on my independence, my freedom. i have mellowed and now i just feel reflective. i feel everything. no matter how many times i start writing lately, nothing makes sense. it is all contradictory. i do not feel bad. just full. full of life, of questions, of wanting, of having. i feel curious about myself and willing to look. i feel like i would really like to lie down and have someone i love hold me. i feel quiet. i feel new. i feel different.

now i don't know where i am, i don't know where i've been, but i know where i want to go. so i thought i'd let you know, that these things take forever. i especially am slow.

98 times.


Sunday, August 16, 2009

i looked outside and it was dark. i didn't see it become dark.

i feel slow and dreamy. i feel like i don't exist. my eyes are teary. i am not sad. they are just crying. they are doing what they need to do.


today was another day. it was a day i was alone. it was a day i wandered. a day i sat in the sun. a day i spoke in german.  a day people asked me about my tattoo. a day i combed my bangs to the right and wore pink underwear and read a book and drank coffee. it was sunday. it was a day like every other day. it was a day completely its own. it was a day i was alive.

i feel like i am inside out and i am wearing time around me like a coat. it is hot and suffocating. it is comforting. it is too near. it is too far away. it is inside me, which is now outside. it is everywhere. it is ticking against me. i don't feel real.


i am afraid to say when i feel sad. i feel like if i admit a moment of unhappiness that my whole self will unravel. that every step, every moment of going in berlin, will come undone. like i am playing jenga, pulling rectangular blocks from beneath and stacking them precariously high. maybe they are too high. maybe if i move the wrong way, everything will come crashing down. i know this is not true, but i am afraid to test it. like eating pop rocks and drinking soda at the same time. or swallowing watermelon seeds. or sneezing with your eyes open. i am sure that completing these actions will not elicit the horrible results they are rumored to have. but i am not sure enough to try.

i am not sad.

i really am not sad.

today i just feel a little lost. a little unsure.

i am in a cafe and it's 80 degrees at 10 pm. they are playing alanis morrissett. the man next to me is talking on the phone in german. i can understand him. i feel lonely. rebecca is gone and a german boy named jonas keeps calling me and somehow that makes me feel more lonely. i am leaving berlin in a week.  thomas will be here in four and a half days. i am wearing the thinnest cotton dress and my thighs are sticking to the plastic seat. i am tired. these are the facts.

this day has been endless. it has been fleeting.

rebecca and i decided not to say goodbye. we said, see you soon. and then i hugged her and she said, that feels quite like a goodbye squeeze, in her very english english accent. rebecca always says quite like. i told her it was not a goodbye squeeze, i just love hard. i think i was holding onto her.

i am always holding on.

let go.

today the box of nails and the bike pump are gone from the bathroom. in their place, there is a pair of wet jeans and a kite. during my shower, the blue and yellow tail of the kite wrapped itself around and clung imploringly to my skin. i could not help but laugh.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

i am in my new flat. it smells like milk.
in the shower, there is a soggy box of nails, a disposable pink razor, and a bike pump. there is no soap or shampoo.
this morning i met my flatmate, julian. he was wearing only unbuttoned track pants and suspenders. we got along immediately.

i feel strange. i feel dizzy and light.
this is probably because i only slept two hours. christian had a party at his cafe last night and i was apparently placed on the dance committee prior to my arrival. a boy named anton came to me and said
i hear you are the american girl, who likes to dance. he was correct. i am the american girl who likes to dance.
shortly thereafter, vera, who coerced me to perform at movieoke the first weekend i was here, implored me to start dancing, as nobody else was. obviously, i complied. we danced. and we danced and danced. and then everyone danced. christian wore the purple bow i gave him and at times i pretended to help him behind the bar. i talked to everyone. in german. when i have had a few beers, my german is excellent. i should try this technique in class.
when it was broad daylight, christian and i crawled to his home and i rested there for just a bit. he has said i can stay with him when i return to berlin from sicily. everything is falling into place.
i am disjointed and not making sense.
instead of sleeping, i went out to breakfast with rebecca and was drunk on sun and lack of sleep. i finished my latest book, unpacked a few things, and wrote in my journal. i am going to watch soccer with christian. i am going to meet rebecca's parents later. i am going and going and going. i am in berlin.
today i don't feel like myself. i am not sure what that means. it is not bad. it is different. i feel like i could do anything.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

whoever said, it's like riding a bike, obviously has never been me. they suggest that, despite distance or lack of practice or the passage of time, that some things are just inherent, that they come back to you immediately.
i cannot ride a bike.
okay. i am physically capable of it, but much like swimming, in the past it has only made me feel out of control and floundering. like at any moment i'll fall over or stop being able to breathe or just cease to exist completely. i believe, as a child, i enjoyed riding my pink bike up and down the hill of serena road, but my adult life contains no memories involving bicycles. 
the last time i can even remember riding a bike in the last five years was to fly's memorial day picnic a year or so ago. all the fly girls decided it would be nice to ride over together, so i unearthed the purple mountain bike emma lovingly donated to me, which i immediately relocated to the junk corner of our apartment. when i arrived for the cheerful, girl bike ride to the park, i could not understand why my bike wouldn't work. apparently it was because having flat tires and a derailed chain makes it slightly difficult to ride. 
after some friendly repairs from my knowledgeable friends, we rode off. my purse kept interfering with the rotation of my legs. i was wearing a dress and flashing my underwear everywhere. i kept almost running into people and cars. and i struggled to keep up on the unbelievably short ride.
all in all, it was unpleasant.

this memory is the only thing that came to mind when my equally lovely, though more international group of german school girlfriends said we should participate in the school's bike tour of potsdam. i suggested i skip this particular activity. i said, i will come to the spaziergang on tuesday instead. i averred the certainty of my death, should i attend.
they made me go.
i like these girls so much that i agreed to go.
i am not sure that anyone understands what true horror riding a bike inspires in me. it is not natural. it is not easy. it is not something i remember, something i never forget. it is not like riding a bike. my heart was pounding as we went to rent our bikes for the day. this time i wore shorts. this time i had a backpack. this time i came prepared. but still i felt like i was at the first day of kindergarten. the man appraised me and said unfortunately he didn't have any little bikes left. he said, instead i will give you one with extra breaks. i was truly horrified. 
and then this is what i did.
after days of worrying and years of avoiding this exact activity, i sat on the seat of my bike and i pedaled.
and i rode.
and i rode and i rode. and we rode through the forest and to castles and to a beer garden and through the town. we rode on streets and through fields and across bridges and down cobblestone streets that shook me like a jar of marbles, clacking and loud and abrupt. and rebecca and i sang motown songs and i laughed and i pretended my hair was long and beautiful in the wind. and then i went fast, what seemed to be impossibly fast to me. we rode for maybe three hours, with some little stops, and i felt happy, i felt like summer. 
and that was it. i rode a bike.
i honestly believe that for a period of time, i was incapable of it. or at least not strong enough to access the parts of me that could. now here i am in berlin and i rode a bike. berlin asked me to ride a bike. i said okay. it seems like a great success to me. it is something that most everyone else learned a long time ago. i learned it, but i did not feel comfortable in it. 
today i felt comfortable. i am learning things, i am growing. i am returning to the things that were supposed to come naturally, but which maybe i lost along the way. things like breathing, relaxing, being happy, taking care of myself, living fully. i am going.
it's just like riding a bike.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

sometimes when i walk now, i narrate in my head. i have resumed writing long enough that i view the world through the eyes, or words rather, of an observer. the sentences unravel with each step. i can literally see the words, stamped in people's footsteps. i read it as they walk away, trailing in their narratives.
it is most vivid each day, when i emerge from the u-bahn station. i always take the stairs. the escalator is too passive. i want to be active. i want to participate. it is two flights. sixty-five steps, which i often count-- each one a tiny victory, until i arrive at the top of the station where everything is buzzing. though i do it every day, it still amazes me. the traffic of people. the commotion. the intentness. some people walk quickly, sure of themselves and their direction. others stand lost, looking at signs, turning maps every which way, weighted by their cumbersome bags. but everyone is frenetic. everyone is going somewhere. everyone is traveling. everyone is going. i watch them. i write their stories. i smile and, almost always, they do not smile back. this does not bother me.
this morning i was so removed from myself that i felt i was standing behind my own eyes, wearing my skin like a suit. this was not scary. it was wonderful. it removed all the pressure from my person, as a physical entity. i felt, completely, for a moment, that who i am has nothing to do with how i look. that i am beautiful or not beautiful, because of how i live and how i treat people, and not because i look a certain way. i wrote stories as i walked. i felt free. i felt okay.

our class is exceedingly boring. it mainly consists of taking two sentences and making them into one, using dative or genitive pronouns or temporal or conditional phrases. occasionally, we discuss various words and expressions for being drunk. i am not sure how this factors into the lessons, but it somehow always seems to happen. our teacher sweats excessively. he blots his face with tissues, while rattling off sentences in low, grumbling german. i cannot understand him, nor do i sense any sort of emotion from him, unless franticness is an emotion. somehow, i still really like him. his name is klaus and he is from bayern. when we don't understand, he calls it homework. he basically says, figure it out.
i am okay with figuring it out. doing my homework provides me with an immense sense of satisfaction. i sit at my desk and lay my papers out in front of me. i reference my dictionary and keep lists of vocabulary. i review notes for the day. i write in small, neat lines. i hold my pen like they taught us to in elementary school. i am a good student.

to celebrate our one week anniversary, rebecca and i had lunch in hackesher markt. we sat in hanging woven chairs, like my auntie margaret once had on her porch. kate and i would fight over who got to sit in it.  today we did not have to fight. there were chairs in abundance-- my childhood fantasy come true, curving lines of chairs, bobbing around mosaicked tables. chairs that amazed me each time i bounced and i did not snap, fall to the ground. chairs that felt like a hug, like being held. maybe that is why i liked that chair so much as a child.
later we went to the pergamon museum and took an audio tour of some of the most incredible pieces of greek, roman, babylonian, and middle eastern history. pieces of antiquity. i reveled in it. it made me feel the size i am. small, insignificant, dwarfed amidst the scope of history and civilization and sheer existence. beneath massive marble sculptures, pillars, altars, i felt almost nonexistent and that was comforting. somehow my expanding perception of the world is not lonely, but reassuring. i am small and this is who i am and someday i will not exist anymore and so it goes. but for now, i have this and i should make of it what i can.
i am making it into stories, into words, into moments, into love, into hope. i have never felt so hopeful.
it is just a day of class and food and a museum, but it feels like the best thing that's ever been. i feel like i'm no longer waiting for something to happen. so long, i've felt like i was waiting for life to start. like every moment was in anticipation of another. like if i only had something to look forward to, i could bear the now. 
now here i am and now feels fine. now feels good. now feels like enough.
this is it. this is my story. these are my moments. i am writing them down. i am observing. i am living. i am going. this is my life. 
my name is beth.
i am in berlin.

little.

Monday, August 10, 2009

after writing that last entry, i remembered a paper i wrote once in college. in a german class. my teacher was insane and amazing and told us only to write about something german, he didn't care what or in what language or how it was written or anything but that it should be about 4000 words. i produced the following.
it is long. maybe about 4000 words. i am the same girl i was when i was 20. i am completely different. i am beth.
let go.

I have decided to write about the first poem I see when I open my book. The book is Ahead of All Parting: The Selected Prose and Poetry of Rainer Maria Rilke. The book is silver and sea green.  The pages are creamy.  The type is black.  Each left-hand page contains entirely German, each right-hand page, English.  They are different poems, but the English ones are born of the German.  They are relatives, perhaps, but not twins.  I will never fully understand the meaning of the left-hand pages.  Also, I will never fully understand the meaning of the right-hand pages.  We will never fully understand each other.  And that is okay.  I am tired of thinking.  I am tired of analyzing and dissecting and understand and knowing.  For now, I would like four thousand words of reaction, where I only have to see and immediately offer the jumbled contents of my mind, without entirely justifying or explaining them.

I love poetry, because I do not have to think-- an idea, which, perhaps, is contrary to most people's concept and experience of poetry, itself.  So many people shudder at my love for poetry.  I can't understand it, they say.  I don't know all that stuff about rhyme, they say, as if poetry were all understanding and rhyme.  Poetry is a moment.  It is words, which I might not read systematically.  I often start at the end, skipping upward through the stanzas, to the beginning.  Sometimes I do not make it that far.  Each word is a poem.

I collect some number of words into my mind, some arrangement, which the author perhaps did not intend, and this is my poem.  This is my experience.  They make a feeling.  I do not have to understand why or how.  Nothing so structured as rhyme scheme or meter registers in my consciousness.  Poetry is shallow for me.

This is beautiful, not unfortunate.

The words sit on my face, in my mouth.  I can feel them.  Literally.  The movement of each letter-- its curves and dips and angles-- offers me an emotion.  I do not search for justification or reason.

I can taste words.  I can touch them.

A woman comes into my restaurant, wearing a name tag for a synesthesia association.  I can taste her name.  Susan.

I wonder if music is colorful for her, or sounds, delicious.

When I eat, I do not have to ask myself why I enjoy the experience.  I simply put the food in my mouth.  Chew.  Swallow.  It is a fleeting and precious moment.

I eat poetry.  Each word is a poem.  Each word is a morsel.  I will bite each one and simply let my taste buds respond.  They decide for me the flavor of each word.

This might seem, so far, an extravagant, extended metaphor.  I intend it, however, to be no metaphor.  Words are tangible to me.  I can taste them.  Now I will open the creamy pages of Rilke's words and react.  Taste.


I open to the same page as always.  Page 91.  Ahead of All Parting seem intent upon being eternally open to this moment, despite my desire to find new words.  Perhaps every page in this book is page ninety-one.  It contains a segment from a poem, which stretches across many pages.  The title is "Requiem for  a Friend."  The translation, however, is inadequate.  Rilke's original is  "für eine Freundin."  Such a word is inexpressible in English.  I cannot tell you my friend is a woman without inserting some unintended word.  Requiem for a Female Friend does not roll off the tongue so easily.  Requiem for a Woman ignores the fact that she is dear to me.  She is, she was.

I will not think about this though, because I have opened to page 91, which is not the title page, and these words are, in themselves, a poem.  This brief stanza is its own entity.  In my journal, you might see written down these same lines.


For this is wrong, if anything is wrong: not to enlarge the freedom of a love with all the inner freedom one can summon.  We need, in love, to practice only this: letting each other go.  For holding on comes easily; we do not need to learn it.


I have ignored Rilke's lines breaks.  I have ignored the line breaks of Stephen Mitchell, who has translated Rilke's word here.  Right now this poem is mine.  One might call this plagiarism, but in reality these words are now mine.  They are a moment, which is my own cold feet tucked under my body and a thick swell in my throat, which feels something like grief and something like joy.  The words are crammed into my esophagus and I can literally not decided whether to swallow or vomit.

Aside from death, my thoughts are predominantly occupied with letting go.


It is the first time I've ever been in Berkeley, and I am lying on a queen-sized bed in the Claremont hotel, pressing my headphones into my skull.  I listen to this song on repeat.  Never Let Go, it is called. Taylor gave it to me.  Whenever I am worried or scared, Taylor tells me to listen to this song and I can know that he will love me.  He sings and pays his glossy black piano and I feel both safe and anxious at the same time.  I want to vomit his song.  It is in my throat, like Rilke's words. 

Taylor is my best friend right now, maybe my only friend my senior year of high school, and I think that if I could just hold onto him and never stop that everything would be okay.  Then I would not have to worry about losing him.

He promises me that he will always love me, but I despise promises and ask him never to say such things to me because promises are inevitably disappointments.  Always.  My whole face aches in thinking about promises.

The reality of my skepticism about promises is affirmed when you (yes, you) tell the class that the German word for promise is versprechen, which possesses an inherent aspect of falsity.  One spricht ver, if such a thing were possible.  One speaks erroneously.  But should we extract the ver, the deceitful element, and leave only the sprechen, then one would merely be speaking and not making promises, which is precisely the problem.  One cannot speak and make promises, without inherently being false.  Promises are lies, however sincere the speaker may wish to be,

In other words, we must always let go, despite the loving pledge of Taylor's song.

His voice cuts off in the middle of the chorus.  Ironically he sings "it never ends and."  And then it ends.  The song clips off abruptly, into this robust, mocking silence.  He tells me he will give me the finished version, but it does not happen before we fight and distance ourselves to the point of not speaking.

I have no spoken with him in eight months.

Requiem für einen Freund.


"Love means being alone," Rilke says, mocking me.  He knows that I cannot help but love and that my deepest fear is being alone.

He tells me my greatest joy and most horrific fear are the same thing.

Lieben heisst allein sein.  The German form offers a beautiful consonance.  Seemingly contrary to my opening statements, which laud a thoughtless, rash relationship with the words, I cannot help but see this device.  The sound is so delicious, though; it is a simple taste, not a thought.  He inverts the "ie" sound-- the sound of love-- and leaves me with the "ei" of solitude. It dominates each word, taunting me with how unlike love it is, how it is the exact opposite of what I want and yet is the inevitable residue of that very thing.  The opposite of love follows love itself.  Hate is not the antithesis of love by any means.  It is just as full, just as passionate and intense and wild as love.  To be hated is to be cared about; someone is occupied with emotion toward you.  Loneliness is the true opposite of love.  Vacant space.  Nothingness.

Love means being alone.  Love requires letting go.  Requiem for a friend.

He provides so little white space to contemplate this solitude, not a minute to absorb the intensity of his words.  Instead the pages are crammed with letters, with their shapes, with curves and arches and lines and dots.  As long as I keep filling my mouth with words, I will not be able to name this loneliness.  I will be too filled with other sounds to taste and pronounce its presence.

Poetry is making me insane.  I feel incapable of forming cohesive ideas.  I must keep swallowing.  Literally, I swallow and I swallow.  Scraping  the sides of my mouth with my tongue in order to gulp it all down.  My frantic swallows intensify to a point, where I feel that I am consuming my mouth itself.  I would like anything to keep me from throwing up.  Poetry makes me want to vomit.  I love it.  I love the madness and the repulsion that I experience.


I hate Rilke.  I am feeling frantic.  This hatred is the same thing as loving him.  In the background, I have classical music, which intensifies my lack of control.  I hate writing four thousand words, because I prefer less than one hundred at a time.  I prefer short poems.  I prefer short stories.  I prefer brevity.  Nothing that promises more than what I can consume in one glance.  I want only what I can see on one page.  Only that I will read.  Only that I will produce.  This will be forty one-hundred-words.  Sometimes I have trouble making sense.

Here begins the eighteenth bath of one hundred words.  My computer tells me I have composed exactly one thousand eight hundred two words.  Eintausendachthundertzwei.  I prefer German, which allows me to condense three separate English words into one entire word.  I prefer nearness.  I prefer not letting go.  I would like everything to be touching.  All the words to be one, without limit, like the German's.  No one has ever told them that their words must end somewhere.  Instead they can grow and compound illimitably.  Love means being alone. Rilke utters Kindgewesensein and Stephen Mitchell divorces the intimate word into having been a child.  One becomes four.  Separation is inevitable.  If I only truly knew German, four thousand words could extend limitlessly.  Each word would be hundreds of individual pages, each sentence, thousands.  The four thousand could never end.  I would not stop to care whether it made sense as long as it kept moving, as long as it filled space and time and sound.  As long as I could hear.  But English is so sharp and brief.  Each word must be split into pieces.  We will never remain friends.  My cynicism finds justification in the space between words.  Everything falls apart.  Everyone moves away.  Love only breaks.

I am afraid of being alone.


Perhaps my love for language lies in its unfaltering accessibility.  Unlike the most unconquerable distance between myself and old friends, old loves, I can easily reach into the most dark recesses of my mind and recover neglected words.  They are incapable of truly abandoning me, as I might, at any moment, open my massive Oxford English Dictionary and retrieve them.  I find the most joy in perusing the pages of the dictionary, with its honest black print and the purpose of each word offered willingly beside its face.  The dictionary is my catalog of friends.  I might call upon each one at any time with no resistance.  They are waiting in rows to greet me.

And the poem.  The poem is such an attractive display of friends.  A photograph, an invitation, an offering.

My metaphors are conflicting, as words are now both edible and allies.  I do not eat my friends, yet this possibility may be the allure of language.  It is precisely whatever I want it to be.  It says what I want and rarely disappoints me.  If i am unsure of a meaning, a connotation, a pronunciation, the dictionary always awaits me.  Its pages will tell me simply.  There are no lies, no promises.  I have nothing to lose.


Practice only this: letting go.


Exactly one year ago, I allowed myself to trust someone, whose curves and tastes were not that of a word.  November seventeenth two thousand three.  Zweitausenddrei.  Rather than literary, the experience was human.  He had his own mouth, his own words, how own poems on his tongue.  I kissed it once and I forgot to be scared.

I am afraid these words will become stupid.  I will begin blathering about boys and kissing and being nervous.  I am a thirteen year old girl, when I remember this experience.  But it was poetry.  Our love was poetry.  Please let me tell you.

I had a fear of knowing more than his face, which I saw.  I was afraid of looking into the pages of his skull to read his meaning, his pronunciation, of reading in those lines that he was merely a show-- that the beauty of experiencing him superficially could not be sustained in knowing him internally.  I was afraid of being disappointed.  Should he be less than I felt with my eyes. I risked this, however, and found my doubts to be pleasantly unnecessary.  From the very discovery of his name (Diogo), his meaning exceeded the beauty of his face.  This relationship grew on words-- not a careless explosion of them, but a sincere, tender exchange.  Oh! My heart clenches at the though of it.

I realize now that I fell in love because he spoke.  He offered me words with thought and meaning.  Never was a word merely a vacancy with nothing behind it.  Every moment had depth.  I have trusted words first and foremost in my life and should one use them correctly, they will, in fact, be my trust.  Not have it. But be it.

And so Diogo is.

He is my trust.

I am looking at his name on the page.  It seems stark with that capital D, so formal and closed.  diogo is not closed.  He is unending.  And yet my trust is gone.  It is in Brazil.  It has gone away and taken a large piece of me with it.

He burrowed most deeply inside me, because he knew precisely how to speak my language-- one, which is both audible and implied.  It is a method of usage, a sound, a pace, a lifestyle.  diogo carries a dictionary with him at all times.  Together our speech was a poem; we found a rhythm, a meter, which began at either end of a line and ran to meet itself and unite in the middle.  Two halves of a certain poetic line.  I had never been in love before, and when I found him, it was a poem.


On June 29, 2004, at 11:58 pm, these words came in the absence of my trust.


i expect

in the middle of

the

long, wiry

    middleless

night

to

feel your skin

arch into the 

  spaces

left gaping

  behind my

knees and in

the fold of my

belly

   left gaping

by the night

by you

  by the middleless

stretch

which refuses to

  peak and

then

  descend

but rather

  climbs

endlessly

  toward yours

  unreachable

  knees

which will 

  bend into

mine

  and clot the

spaces

which


the spaces

  which are

letting everything

fall

apart as it

  rises

and scatters like 

  escaped

balloons--

  formless

and without

  end.


My trust is a bouquet of red balloons, which float distantly and eventually will choke fish in the ocean with their withered, latex corpses.  I can hear my poetry teacher asking me why red, why red.  One can never simply insert colors or adjectives without them having some very significant meaning.  Should I simply feel like having my trust be a red balloon, it wold only confuse and mislead the reader.  diogo, you are red like the sheets on my bed and my torn paper lantern and my non-drip candles and my nose when I cry.  You are red, because that is simply the color I feel like ascribing to you at this moment.


Here I realize that my sanity has dissipated completely.  It seems that I cannot maintain a single vein of thought, and yet the truth is these words are all a unified idea for me.  I began with a poem and have arrived at a relocated love, from which I will never recover.  These are the same experience for me.  Poetry, love, taste, loss, time, shapes, fear, separation, insanity.  I read because I do not have to think, but can simply access the fragile places inside of me.  They are so easily called to surface, where I can witness but not examine them.  And I can put them away with a closed book, or I can try.

I speak of how poems are so ephemeral and superficial for me, how they are bite-sized items.  With some though, I cannot escape the taste.  diogo's sound will never leave my mouth.   Rilke will constantly be waiting beneath my tongue.  I will never get away from any of this.  One will say ostensible and tine and pith and ten-penny and I will never escape the meaning of those words.  It is a meaning, not in dictionaries, but one I found in him, in a person.  Nothing is okay, because I cannot escape words.  They never go away.  They will constantly remind me.

I wrote some on my back, which are important.  Bist du mit der vollständiger Rüstung der LIEBE bekleidet, kann menschlicher Hass dich nicht erreichen.  Clad in the panoply of Love, human hatred cannot reach you.  Clad in the panoply of Love.  People read my back-- its freckled white page-- and pronounce panoply as if it were panopoly.  Like Monopoly.  Like a game, where one buys tiny property cars and green and red houses.  When someone says it correctly, I know they are mine.  They have heard me.  It does not matter that they do not necessarily understand.  They have heard something in me.  Panoply.  Armor.  My last name is pronounced Lost. er.  Like Lobster without a b, my mother's voice repeats on the phone endlessly, the same line for every caller.  I am not Loast-er, like toaster.  I am not loast, but lost.  Lost.  I am lost, thank you for saying it correctly.  Her name is Maureen.  My mother is Maureen, which the phone also garbles.  People look for Marine, Mowreen, Mary Ann.  They do not know my mother.  When they call asking for Marine Loaster, their distance is apparent.  They have voiced and exposed their falsity.  I tell them, she is not home.

These are the words, which are important to me.

I have a dream one night that someone is trying to hurt me.  I am naked.  Armored though, my tattoo spreads across my entire body to protect me.  I wake up feeling safe.  The words have kept me safe.


My eyes are crying now, independent of my desire to maintain physical, in the absence of mental, composure.  Entire poems are coming out of my eyes.  They will never truly disappear though, only be recycled.  Evaporate and return through the water I sip before bed.  A cool glass of poetry to put me to sleep.  I can hold onto words.  They hold onto me.  The relationship is torturous and beautiful.  I love to read.  I love to write.  I can taste words.  I love the taste.

Rilke says I need to practice letting go.  He has written these words for me.  No one else can see them.  He has left this entire book of poetry only for me, open to page ninety-one.  Seite einundneunzig, where Requiem for a Friend is shouting the same ugly words to me.  They are so beautiful and ugly.  Let go.  Let go.  Let go.

let go!

Rilke whispers now. let go, let go letgo letgoletgoletgoletgo...

He does not need to yell anymore, he does not even speak, because I can hear him without any words being exchanged at all.  They were created to define and communicate our reality, but have assumed a life of their own.  Words transcend all existence, the world itself.  Words are the world.  It is all garbled in my mind.  I only want to hold on to my loves, my idea, my vein, my point, my hope, the promise, the song, my tears, each word.  If I can just hold on and not think too much, I will be okay.  Let go. let go let go let go.

My ultimate sense of security, of stability, consistency, understanding-- these stupid words-- begin to blur.  They seem senseless.  letgolet go let go let go let gogogogo go go let go let go beth let go i've pushed myself so long, i do not want to capitalize anymore, i do not want to have punctuation or subjects or predicates or even spaces. i just want to let go and stop feeling, i don't want words to exist anymore. they only hurt me. they hurt. let go let go. please, let go







(To those leaning on the sustaining infinite, today is big with blessings.)